Three days
in Lisbon
Old Lisbon on day one, the riverside in Belém on day two, the elegant middle of the city on day three. Leave room for long lunches and every viewpoint you walk past. If the weather turns, swap day three for Sintra.
Alfama and the castle
The oldest neighborhood: hills, tiles, viewpoints and fado.
Start at the top of the hill and walk downhill all day. Big views over the rooftops to the river.
Go early, it gets busyTiled terrace and bougainvillea, then wander down through Alfama's lanes for lunch at a small tasca.
Lunch in AlfamaRide the classic yellow tram through Graça, then climb to the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, one of the highest viewpoints in the city, for sunset.
Board at Martim Moniz for a seatMind your pockets on boardTraditional Portuguese song in a small dining room. Book a table; shows are quiet, so no talking during songs.
Book aheadBelém and the river
Monuments, the most famous custard tarts, and a creative warehouse quarter.
Take tram 15E toward Belém. The monastery's cloister is a masterpiece of the ornate Manueline style, and a UNESCO World Heritage site together with Belém Tower.
Tram 15E from Praça da FigueiraThe original pastel de nata bakery, right by the monastery. The queue moves fast; eat them warm with cinnamon and sugar.
Snack stopPass the Monument to the Discoveries, then the tower itself at the water's edge. MAAT's curving roof is a short walk back along the river.
Old industrial complex under the 25 de Abril Bridge, now shops, cafés and the Ler Devagar bookshop.
Food hall with stalls from well-known local kitchens: everyone picks something different. Pink Street is next door if you want to stay out.
Easy group dinnerBaixa, Chiado and Bairro Alto
Grand squares, old cafés and the city's nightlife hill.
The huge riverside square, then under the arch into Baixa, the grid of streets rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake.
Coffee at A Brasileira, where a bronze Fernando Pessoa sits at a table outside, then browse Bertrand, one of the oldest bookshops in the world.
Coffee breakGarden viewpoint looking across to the castle where day one began. Bairro Alto's bars and restaurants start right behind it.
Last dinner togetherTrains to Sintra leave from Rossio station and take about 40 minutes. See Pena Palace, Quinta da Regaleira and the Moorish Castle, and come back for dinner in the city.
Book Pena Palace tickets ahead in high seasonStart earlyEat and drink
Pastel de nataCustard tart. Have one a day, minimum.
BifanaMarinated pork sandwich, a classic quick lunch.
BacalhauSalt cod, cooked a hundred different ways.
GinjinhaSour-cherry liqueur, sipped near Rossio.
Before you go
- Comfortable shoes. Lisbon is steep and the stone pavement gets slippery.
- Viva Viagem card for metro, trams and buses. Load it once, tap everywhere.
- Book the fado dinner for day one.
- Sintra tickets if we switch day three.
- Sunscreen and water. Viewpoints have little shade.
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